Guilloche & Monocoque: Electric LIPioneer

Lip Cosmic Prestige de la France: Electric MileStone, de Gaulle & Eisenhower


WHY WE LOVE IT? Because it is one of the most important / influential watches of the last century (#seeourblog) and a French design- and technology-milestone -- Prestige de la France.

We were happy to fully service this beautiful Lip Cosmic R27 and to make it a precise and reliable runner. Guaranteed and to enjoy. The 18K monocoque-case is in beautiful condition as well.

1958, a world recognized innovation from France in lavish and highest quality execution and functionality. Probably one of the most important French watches from the last 70 years: Technique from tomorrow for the todays Man, as the 1958-advertising points it out.

For sure the Lip ref607 "Cosmic" R27 is one of the most important french watches ever, a true pioneer, a rare jewel, a french icon and one of the most beautiful watches of the 20th century. The engine turned dial (NB the solid gold Cosmic always had a lavish guilloche-dial, like this and only the goldplated Vanguard came with a simpler clean dial) is just one part of its lavish appearance. One more is the heavy solid gold monocoque-case with characteristic and strong facets. Highest quality in every aspect and not comparable to a 1950s Hamilton watch -- by design; by execution and quality; by technology.

Vacheron made a watch they called "Prestige de la France" -- but no matter whats the name of it: This LIP Cosmic for sure is it, the true Prestige de la France. The most influential watch from the Grande Nation in the 2nd half of the 20th century.

The LIP Cosmic with the electric caliber R27 should be one of the most important (French) watches of the last 100 years, you ask? Yes, probably. And this becomes clear when you see the lavish execution of the heavy gold-case, the beautiful guilloche-dial and the innovations it had and how they influenced some of the most important watches in history later-on: I am sure you will be surprised. Before mentioning the design-elements and who was influenced by these it might make sense to point out that the LIP R27 was presented to the public just weeks after the Hamilton cal500 -- the first electric watch-movement. But in a direct comparison to the some weeks earlier finished cal500-developement by Hamilton the LIP is by far superior: the movement is quite stable and lacks several disadvantages and fragile elements of the hasty presented Hamilton and even more it is relatively robust and repairable. And this is the comparison just on the movement level -- the quality of the case is just like a different world: low to medium quality of the Hamilton with a comparatively thin case usually gold-filled or in 14K solid gold (18K is existent but not more often around than a unicorn) vs the heavy and solid high-quality case of the LIP in either steel or 18K rose- or yellowgold.

So, yes the LIP Cosmic is not only a design-milestone but a very influential role model for not just one but a complete series of later horological super-important watches -- and here is the (probably not final, but nevertheless very impressive) list:

Bulova Accutron (1960) used the battery compartment similar accessible by the small lid and also used a very similar mechanism for the setting-crown on the case back (backwinder!) -- and the Bulova cal214 Accutron is not any other watch-movement but the 1st electronic: a true horological milestone and very important.

Universal Geneve PoleRouter Electric (1963) used the flash-formed counter-weight on the seconds-hand, too.

Longines Ultra-Quartz cal6512 (Aug 1969): the first cybernetic, ie. quartz-corrected tuningfork-watch used as well a separate battery-compartment and the same "backwinder"-mechanism for the setting crown. The first wristwatch that made use of quartz -- not as a beatmaker but a corrector, but anyway: super-important.

Seiko 35SQ Astron (Dec 1969): the Japanese inventors of the first quartz-watch were obviously very inspired by the monocoque-case the French design-specialists created in 1958, already: and so Seiko adopted it (plus the separate battery-compartment) for the #horologicalMilestone Seiko cal35 Astron.

LIP Cosmic: Inspiring! There is probably no other description for the so far a bit overlooked high-quality innovation from France.


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